Faults we repair
- Fresh-food side above 40°F
Food pressed against the vents comes first; after that, a fan, a temperature sensor or an iced-over coil.
- Frost building in the freezer
A defrost heater, the thermostat beside it, or a sensor that misreads.
- Ice maker stopped
We follow the water from the shutoff under the sink to the fill tube before condemning the ice maker.
- Puddle below the bottom drawer
A defrost drain that has clogged, or a supply line weeping at a fitting.
- Door that will not close tight
A hardened gasket, or hinges that have let the door sag.
Price ranges
| Repair | Typical range |
|---|---|
| Replacing a door gasket | $270–$600 |
| A fan motor, inside or at the condenser | $340–$730 |
| Defrost heater, its thermostat, a sensor | $270–$610 |
| Ice maker, its valve or the water line | $300–$840 |
| The electronic control board | $450–$1,010 |
| Compressor or refrigerant (sealed system) | $1,340–$3,030 |
Each line includes parts and labor. Where your repair lands inside its line depends on the unit, and you hear that number before we start.
Ice that changes with the season
If your ice turns cloudy or tastes different in May or October while the ice maker still fills normally, the water is a likelier cause than the refrigerator. West of I-25 the district changes its supply twice a year, as our page on the May water switch explains.
Before the visit
Do you repair Sub-Zero freezers and drawers as well?
Yes: full-size freezers, the freezer sections of combination units, and the refrigerator and freezer drawers that sit under a counter or in an island. The visit, the diagnosis and the way a price is agreed are the same for all of them, and the ranges on this page apply.
Should I unplug the refrigerator before you arrive?
No. Leave it running unless it is leaking, sparking or smells of burning, because a fault is easiest to find while the unit is trying to cool. If the fresh-food section has climbed above 40 degrees, move perishable food into a cooler with ice until the visit.